Rogue Columnist

Downtown & central Phoenix Phoenix 101: History

Phoenix Union Station

Phoenix Union Station, circa 1975 (Photographer unknown).

When people talk now about a potential restoration of Amtrak to Phoenix, it’s insulting and unrealistic. Insulting because the plan is a stub to Tucson where passengers could board the every-other-day Sunset Limited (Although technically the Southern Pacific abandoned the “limited” name in the late 1950s. It’s unrealistic because the far-right Legislature would never fund such an effort. They despise light rail in Phoenix despite its popularity.

What’s needed is a restoration of the former northern main line so passengers could go to Los Angeles and points east and Midwest, as well as daily passenger service. State support has enabled a passenger-train renaissance across the country, such as Amtrak California, the Amtrak Cascades in the Northwest, Heartland Flyer between Fort Worth and Oklahoma City, as well as service between Chicago and St. Louis and Kansas City, Milwaukee, and Detroit.

Every form of transportation is subsidized; driving and flying — major contributors to human-caused climate change most of all. Yet under today’s far-right regime federal support of Amtrak is iffy.

Read on to when Phoenix enjoyed abundant passenger trains.

Jon Talton May 23, 202523

Phoenix Politics: Arizona/Phoenix Politics: National

The end

I’ve been writing this blog since 2007 and little has changed. Now, I’m done. The archives will remain open, especially for those interested in Phoenix history. So will the comments section, although substantive and informative posts are most appreciated.

The Arizona Problem, as Soleri aptly named it, remains. Despite a Democratic governor, attorney general, and secretary of state, the Legislature — the most powerful branch of state government likely will remain in Republican hands.

If so, stopping sprawl, enabling cities to chart their own policies, planting real shade trees in the older parts of the city, recovering the garden city of my youth, adequately funding public education, shutting down the charter school and private prison rackets, restoring Amtrak service to Phoenix, and overpowering the Real-Estate Industrial Complex. Forget about it.

And now, Donald Trump — convicted felon — wins the 2024 presidential election. Don’t believe for a nanosecond that Trump 2.0 will be a replay of his first term.

Jon Talton November 7, 202489

Politics: Arizona/Phoenix Politics: National

Anxiety

Carl Muecke illustration

It seems impossible that we’ve reached this crossroads. The choice between a disgraced, convicted felon who denies the validity of the 2020 election and incited an insurrection versus a seasoned, if flawed, vice president in one of the most successful administrations in my lifetime. But here we are. And Arizona might represent the tipping point that allows Donald Trump to win the election.

If he does, America’s experiment in self-governance will be over. In the future, our “elections” will be similar to those in Russia and China. Anyone who believes we can live through a second Trump presidency and move on is kidding themselves. Trump 2.0, with the lying J.D. Vance (who was no hillbilly but grew up in a middle-class family and attended Yale), will utterly change the nation.

Anxious? I certainly am. And you should be as well.

Jon Talton October 22, 202480

Phoenix Politics: Arizona/Phoenix

Constructive actions

I've always been skeptical of "media" attempts to offer solutions. Most of our pressing issues, especially where what Soleri aptly termed the Arizona Problem, can't be solved. But they can be made better. Steve Jobs aptly said that today's axis isn't between left or right, but rather between destructive and constructive.

With that in mind, here are some constructive measures I'd love to see happen in my home state and city.

Maintain and plant more shade trees, hedges, grass, and other cooling elements in central Phoenix and some suburbs. The beautiful view above is of the Encanto-Palmcroft Historic District. People come from out of town and throw down the output of the Arizona Rock Products Association, ripping out "turf" and shade trees, crowing, "We live in a desert!"

Actually, we live in a natural oasis in the actual Salt River Valley — much of what is termed "the Valley" is on basins. That oasis, thanks to the dams and water system created starting in the early 20th century, supported an agricultural empire. Investments in water for the cooling efforts I mention is far better than using it for more sprawl far out on the metropolitan Phoenix fringes.

Jon Talton August 12, 2024109

Politics: National

Harris or autocracy

In a perfect world, when Barack Obama was president he and the Democratic Party would have been building a strong bench of capable younger politicians who could have run for the White House. But we don’t live in that world, and for whatever reason it didn’t happen. President Biden’s decision to step away from the election was courageous but late. His inner circle and first lady Jill Biden should have persuaded him far sooner. And keeping his fading capabilities hidden is deeply troubling.

Nevertheless, Biden was one of the best presidents in my lifetime. He led us out of the pandemic, extricated us (not without blunders) from the Afghanistan war, oversaw a stunning economic comeback, led investments in infrastructure and education. Under the Biden administration, renewable energy is the second largest source of power and climbing. He energized the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau to, among other things, eliminate “junk fees” hidden in many customer bills. His accomplishments are legion and historians — if they exist — will remember him well. Most of all, he believed in our experiment in self-governance and saved us from Trump in 2020.

Now the Democrats have Vice President Kamala Harris and the future of our nation rests in her hands.

Jon Talton July 22, 2024101

Politics: Arizona/Phoenix Politics: National

Monster

Carl Muecke illustration.

Rogue readers have been imploring me to write again. So I will put my shoulder to the wheel, even though much of this will be repetitive, whether dealing with what Soleri aptly called the Arizona Problem or our national existential crisis.

I hesitate to use the T word, because he and his cult feed on media attention. Whether voters are paying attention is another matter. Many Democrats are panicked by President Biden’s debate performance this past week — even though he became much more impressive as the night continued. However, by that time too many viewers had tuned out.

When I was growing up, Arizona was a low-population state with only three congressmen. It didn’t matter much in national elections. Now, with an unsustainable population of more than seven million people, Arizona has become a swing state with dangerous possibilities in November. When the totally unqualified former news-reader for the local Fox affiliate comes within a few thousand votes of becoming governor, you know we’re in trouble.

Jon Talton July 1, 202482

Politics: National

The new Dark Age

Jan Van Eyck's The Last Judgment.

When I was a graduate student at Miami University working for my master's and Ph.D. in American history with an emphasis on the Progressive era and Great Depression, an essential book was The Modern Researcher, by Jacques Barzun and Henry Graff. Barzun went on to write another important work entitled, From Dawn to Decadence, 1500 to the Present: 500 Years of Western Cultural Life.

By decadence, Barzun, a French-born American historian, didn't mean we had degenerated into orgies and widespread louche behavior (too bad). Rather, he argued that the West had run out of ideas. Look at any skyline and you'll see variations of the same International style architecture that has overrun our cities since the end of World War II. But no revival of Art Deco, the pinnacle of architectural achievement in the 1920s and 1930s. Go to the symphony and you'll hear new compositions that only harken back to the atonal music of the early 20th century.

Even pop culture has stagnated. My unified theory is that everything that's bad is getting worse and everything good is at risk, that keeping people stupid allows for every kind of mischief, especially to our democracy.

More than that, we're entering a new Dark Age. The Dark Ages, as every schoolchild once knew, lasted from the fall of the Western Roman Empire until the Renaissance, Reformation and Age of Enlightenment. Our new Dark Age will be different, yet perhaps share some similarities.

Jon Talton February 26, 202482

Phoenix 101: History

The capitol

Arizona never had a state capitol building as such. The charming building at the end of Washington Street topped by a copper rotunda was opened in 1901. It was the territorial capitol. Designed by San Antonio architect James Riely Gordon, it was intended to convey the sense that Arizona was ready for statehood (which happened in 1912).

Gordon wanted a much larger building, with a more prominent rotunda and wings for both houses of the Legislature on each side of the building. Yet problems with funding meant the project had to be cut back in size with the massive segments for the Legislature discarded.

In 1918 and 1938, the building was expanded to the west employing the same architecture as the original territorial capitol. Some of the later construction was done by Del Webb’s company. It increased the total square footage from the original 40,000 to a final 123,000.

It was home to the Legislature until 1960, when the current House and Senate buildings were constructed, and the offices of the governor, secretary of state, and attorney general until 1974.

In that year, the Brutalist Executive Tower was built (Brutalist is not a pejorative but rather a style in the architectural vernacular; it still has its champions) which now looms over the original capitol, which has been turned into a museum. The AG’s office was consigned to a long, unworkable building on Washington east of the capitol before moving to Central Avenue.

Jon Talton January 30, 202413

Downtown & central Phoenix Phoenix

Bright lights, big city

I flew down to Phoenix this past week for a book signing. Here are a few observations, make of them what you will.

— As my fictional character David Mapstone is given to saying, “Phoenix is beautiful at night.” Unfortunately, during the day the uglification of the garden city of my youth continues. Gravel has replaced grass with desert plants dying from the radiated heat. Few shade trees can be found (when one does, the temperature drops 10 degrees). This was an extraordinary warm January, a sign what’s to come. I can’t count the number of times I’ve told people that the Salt River Valley experience several hard frosts every winter — that’s why we didn’t have West Nile Virus.

— Denial is widespread. Denial of the damage done to Phoenix. Denial of history. Denial of climate change. Denial of the peril our experiment in self-government faces in November. People live in their own tribes, with their distinct tribal beliefs. Very intelligent people I spoke with were shocked that I think Donald Trump will win the presidency again. It’s highly likely and the Republicans might win control of both houses of Congress.

Our cynical retired Front Page Editor argues that the Democrats should dump President Biden (or “Bye-done” as he says) in favor of Michigan Gov. Gretchen Whitmer. She’s impressed me, too. But this is magical thinking. When incumbents are challenged they always lose the nomination, such as Reagan vs. Ford in 1976 and Ted Kennedy vs. Carter in 1980. The internecine conflict within the party only weakens it.

Jon Talton January 19, 202458

Phoenix Politics: Arizona/Phoenix Politics: National

Three topics for your week

Much is being made of finally returning Amtrak to Phoenix. Alas, it's a long shot. A reminder: Phoenix, the nation's fifth most populous city, is the largest city in North America without intercity passenger trains. Okay, a second reminder: Once multiple trains served Union Station on the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe railroads for decades, then Amtrak until 1994.

The reason Amtrak stopped service to Phoenix was because the state — the Republican-controlled Legislature and later disgraced GOP Gov. Fife Symington — refused to help the Southern Pacific bring the western portion of the Northern Main Line (from Arlington to Wellton) up to trackage standards to accommodate Amtrak trains.

The present situation is aspirational at best. It consists of a $500,000 grant, as the Arizona Republic reported, "to begin planning for a passenger rail corridor that links Amtrak’s existing line, which runs through Tucson, to the Phoenix metro area."

Jon Talton December 11, 202334

Politics: National

Rethinking Obama

Of the hundreds of columns I’ve written on this site since its inception in 2008, many were about the 44th president of the United States. A long seven years have passed since he left office, years that saw the rise of Donald Trump, his stunning and contested win of the presidency, the pandemic, and so much more. Most of the time, I miss “No Drama Obama,” his pragmatic and steady hand at the helm of the republic. Other times, I wonder about the many meanings and consequences of the man and his times.

He was elected with 53% of the popular vote and 68% of the Electoral College, a strong showing considering the close elections of recent years. He came into office on a swell of revulsion of George W. Bush’s carelessness in allowing 9/11, endless wars and policies of rendition and torture in black sites. He triumphed over Republican John McCain, who not only had the baggage of the Bush years but showed the lack of judgment in picking the half-term Alaska Governor Sarah Palin to be a heartbeat away from the presidency. And with the goodwill of a nation that had elected its first African-American president.

Obama was an intellectual, a rarity in politics, especially for a president. Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, Woodrow Wilson, maybe just maybe John F. Kennedy fit this mold. But Obama wore it lightly. He enjoyed playing hoops, snuck a cigarette, and spoke with empathy and sincerity (a striking contrast from the cold and insecure Wilson). Obama wasn’t merely book smart but street smart, too. He was blessed with good instincts, as with his insistence on continuity and calm, rather than being the Angry Black Man. It didn’t endear him to the left, but overall served him and the nation well.

Jon Talton October 26, 202387

Politics: Arizona/Phoenix Politics: National

Snake removal

If you follow the online Regional Dispatch Center maintained by the Phoenix Fire Department, you’ll frequently see calls labeled “snake removal,” especially in north Scottsdale. As I understand it, firefighters respond to the tony manses Slightly North of Bell (SNOB) to pull rattlesnakes out of pools, away from doors, or their expensively xeriscaped properties.

The Regional Dispatch Center isn’t as inclusive at Seattle’s Real Time 911, and it usually consists of calls to automobile collisions (962s) — often involving pedestrians, bicycles, and motorcycles — as well as mountain rescues of idiots hiking up mountains in mid-day high summer. But the call for snake removal seems especially apt for our moment.

As the wealthy Anglo subdivisions have pushed ever deeper into the desert, they’ve destroyed and disrupted the habitat of the creatures that live there. It’s no surprise, then, that a diamondback — not a baseball player — suns himself on a championship golf course or gives a new meaning to the “water hazard.”

When I was growing up in what’s now the Willo Historic Neighborhood north of downtown Phoenix, we never saw snakes. Believe me, we looked! As a teenager, friends and I would hike around Arizona with a varmint gun at the ready, but never saw a rattler, much less a deadly coral snake or Gila monster. For one thing, I knew to walk with a heavy tread so the snake could feel me coming. DDT had killed off the scorpions and black widow spiders. They’ve made a big comeback, especially on the ever-expanding fringes. And snakes? Call the fire department.

Jon Talton October 16, 202324

Phoenix Phoenix 101: History

Class in Phoenix

When I was growing up in the 1960s, my mother told me Phoenix was a much less class-conscious city than those back east. Consider Boston, where it was said, “The home of the bean and the cod, Where Lowells speak only to Cabots, And Cabots speak only to God.” Phoenix was more of a meritocracy. In the 1960s, Phoenix was largely a middle-class Anglo city.

Merit she had in abundance: A piano prodigy from the age of four, studied at the Eastman Conservatory, was a concert pianist — all before I came along. But we didn’t have money and things were always tight. Still, she and my grandmother raised me in a middle class neighborhood north of downtown, in the house on Cypress Street (above), long before this became one of Phoenix’s first historic districts.

And what she said was true. Our across the street neighbors and friends were wealthy, heirs to the Fred Harvey fortune, but they never put on airs. From the rich children in Palmcroft to the poor ones near Roosevelt Street, we all attended public school at Kenilworth.

Jon Talton October 2, 202324

Phoenix Politics: National

Four topics for your week

The photo above shows Central and Southern avenues in 1930. When I post pics like this on Vintage Phoenix, Arizona Memories, and Phoenix Shadetree History groups on Facebook, the reaction is "wow!" Indeed, it's a wow view. Then, "What happened?" "How could we lose this?"

Most people living in metropolitan Phoenix today have no living memory of the oasis created by the Salt River Valley. Most don't care. "We live in a desert," they gloat as they throw down gravel. Actually, you live in what was an oasis. But thousands of shade trees were torn out to widen streets or by Salt River Project along the canals. In their place: Asphalt, concrete, and gravel. Oh, and cooling grass ("turf") must go.

The Mayor pledges to plant more trees, but I'm skeptical. With a federal grant, the city pledges to "plant native and drought-resistant trees such as mesquite, Chinese pistache, or desert acacia. Likewise, they'll avoid water-hungry trees like palms." She's very woke, interested in "tree equity." I think we'll get palo verdes and little shade.

Too bad for Phoenix as the summers keep getting hotter and lasting longer. So much was lost.

Jon Talton September 18, 202333

Downtown & central Phoenix Phoenix

Cities, past and future

Downtown Cincinnati at night, seen from across the Ohio River.

A reader asked me to write about what Phoenix might learn from cities in the Midwest. It’s a challenging assignment, also one freighted with paradox considering so many Phoenicians come from the same region. Nevertheless, I’ll put my shoulder to the wheel.

I lived in Cincinnati when I worked for the Cincinnati Enquirer in the 1990s. Churchill called it America’s most beautiful inland city decades before and I found it the same when I was there. So, this puts me in a position to examine advantages, challenges, and lessons. Like all Midwestern cities, Cincinnati is much older than Phoenix. It was founded in 1788, named after the Society of the Cincinnati, Revolutionary War veterans honoring the Roman general offered the dictatorship of Rome, but went back to his farm. He was an apt comparison to George Washington. Cincinnati was the Queen City of the West, although the West moved on.

It has numerous advantages. Cincinnati is built on hills rolling down to the Ohio River, distinctive neighborhoods, a dense downtown, architecture jewels such as Union Terminal (above right) — now mostly a museum center but also served by Amtrak — Over the Rhine which is a National Urban Historic Landmark, and major corporate headquarters, including Procter and Gamble whose offices are downtown.

Cincinnati’s numerous cultural institutions are crowned by music: The Cincinnati Symphony, Cincinnati Pops, Chamber Orchestra, May Festival, and the University of Cincinnati’s College-Conservatory of Music. In addition to UC, Cincinnati offers other universities in and near the city, including Miami, my graduate alma mater and one of the original “Public Ivies.”

Jon Talton September 3, 202338